Seadoo Sportster 1800 Manual
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Hello started my pressure test today:thumbsup: Started with engine cooling system and pressure held good there:thumbsup: Next was Bottom End and Top End It would leak down and I checked everything and everywhere with soap and water mixed and couldnt find a leak. Directions say then to block off inlet oil nipple to rotary valve and the return line for the rotary valve and see if it quit leaking down. And thats what it did!:cheers: Next was the Rotary valve shaft testing This is where it was leaking down at a good rate I checked the Plug for the Rotary shaft in the crank case no leaks. Tried these two below: and the gauge show no noticable difference when the spark plug was loosened. Same amount of pressure drop Remove PTO side spark plug. If pressure drops, it indicates a defective PTO side crankshaft inner seal.
Seadoo Sportster 1800 Specs
Remove MAG side spark plug. If pressure drops, it indicates a defective MAG side crankshaft inner seal. Sooooo I removed rotary valve cover and checked the rotary valve shaft seal and couldnt find a leak there either sooooo I believe that meens that the crank case halfs is where my leaks are and the reason i get black oily plugs Gonna start by removing magneto flywheel tommorrow and PTO flywheel and then check manual for next move one more thing i took a video of the rotary valve splines and i could turn it back and forth three splines at a time with out the crank even moving dont know how to get video on her yet so any comments would be apprieciated:cheers.
Sea Doo Challenger 1800 Owners Manual
You didn't mention (as far as I read) if you pressurized PTO and MAG separately or both together, so not knowing this all I can say is it sounds like the inner crank seal that keeps oil from the RV gear bath from flooding into the crankcase, but cant' tell from the description too which half (PTO or MAG) the leak is occurring. I can't understand the conclusion for why the leak is at the case halves mating flange if the air leak stops when you plug the RV oil nipples. But, perhaps there's something in the shop procedure that explains how that would be in this or that case. (intentional play on the word 'case' as in the 'engine case' vs in the 'case' of a leak somewhere).
This is where it kept leaking air but i couldnt find a leak and the manual said to losen spark plug to see if pressure drops then you would have an inner seal leaking depending on wich sparkplug you take out. It was leaking down and when i took out a spark plug the pressure didnt suddenly drop it just kept leaking at the same rate that is why i assumed it would be the RV seal leaking but when i took cover off i couldnt find it leaking there either so the manual says after that test you need to check the crank case halfs for defects and i figured it was just leaking from the sealant inbetween the case halfs hmmmmmm wish i knew lol. This is where it kept leaking air but i couldnt find a leak and the manual said to losen spark plug to see if pressure drops then you would have an inner seal leaking depending on wich sparkplug you take out. It was leaking down and when i took out a spark plug the pressure didnt suddenly drop it just kept leaking at the same rate that is why i assumed it would be the RV seal leaking but when i took cover off i couldnt find it leaking there either so the manual says after that test you need to check the crank case halfs for defects and i figured it was just leaking from the sealant inbetween the case halfs hmmmmmm wish i knew lol. Okay, so you pressurized the RV gear cavity and it didn't hold air, it was leaking.
Seadoo Challenger 1800 Manual
But, was the crankcase completely sealed at this point, did you remember to plug your crankcase air pressure test port? If it was plugged, then there should be nowhere for the air to go until you removed a spark plug(assuming no leak at case halves). If yes to all this, then I'd be forced to agree about a leak between case ahlves but my next question would be why wasn't your bilge full of oil? You must've bought a pressure test kit or something, or you've made your own. Anyways, kudos on actually doing the pressure test, which is the correct way to do it, as opposed to just guessing. I think I would concentrate more on the pressure testing results as opposed to removing the head right away just to get a look at the top of the piston.
If there is an inward air leak at the crankcase halves or outer crankshaft seal, the engine would draw in air from there while it's running, and the fuel:air ratio would be lean. This can cause a miss in the cylinder if large enough which would first appear at low engine speeds but at higher engine speeds it would simply run leaner than normal by some small percentage and it could cause all kinds of issues, mostly heat related, like detonation from a lean mixture which would erode the piston crown, or it could simply cause the piston temperature to rise, to the point the piston to cylinder wall clearance would become too small as the piston heats and expands, to the point the oil film breaks down and the piston skirt begins scraping on the cylinder wall. In this case, you could see the partial seizure as scoring on the piston skirt by looking into the exhaust port.
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